While Quinta do Infantado has been a leader in estate Ports for generations, their international reputation is more recent. Until 1986 the rules required all exported Ports to be aged in the port town of Vila Nova de Gaia, effectively excluding family farms whose ageing facilities were inland, beside their prime vineyard lands. When the rules changed, the Roseira family were poised to enter the international market. The Infantado estate and vineyards are near Pinhão, the centre of what is widely considered a “grand cru” of the Douro Valley, where they have been pioneers of organic viticulture. The fifth and sixth generations of the Roseira family manage the estate, with Joao heading winery production. Joao Roseira is something of a legend in the region, producing Ports that show refined structure, concentration and complexity, and with a focused dry wine range.